America’s rush to build roads through the West left many footprints and legacies, some more honorable than others. The railroad’s contribution to this history changed and displaced swaths of humanity and wildlife never to return. At least one portion of the wealth generated by the “iron horse” has returned to all people though: a quiet patch of sage meadows and porous volcanic bedrock in northeastern Idaho, cradling the idyllic waters of the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, as it slips through a verdant moraine below the Yellowstone Plateau.
For nearly a century, this river’s reach and 11,000 adjoining grass and forest acres in the shadow of ragged Teton peaks and Yellowstone National Park served as the private sanctuary of Union Pacific railroad families and New York socialites. Since 1977 though, the state of Idaho has protected this area near the town of Island Park as the Harriman State Park, named after the industry baron whose family relinquished title to this sacred space. The densely forested 22-square mile former ranch harkens to an era when Union Pacific knew no obstacles and few Americans could step into the trout-rich waters of the William’s Fork.
As quietly wading fly fishermen today undulate like the barley in nearby fields, the uniqueness of natural landscapes like those in the state park is palpable, carved by forces deep (and not so deep at times) beneath our feet. Such places are cast by nature’s hand in rolling green and broad blue features, fractured into facets of sage, heather-ed gray, periwinkle, and ivory in hues without names, only lightly influenced by human hands. Among the sights and accompanying sensory experiences cradled in this eddy of organic artistry in northeastern Idaho are craft beers from southwest Montana and Idaho which do not make it to Colorado shelves. Produced by small breweries and in modest batches, these beers and the views from Island Park are only savored by those who venture beyond our local streets.
Three regional beers crafted to complement the breadth of open skies and silver waterways west of Yellowstone and exhibiting the skills of Rocky Mountain brewers are Better Hazy than Never NEIPA by Boise Brewing, Floating on Aire pilsner by Payette Brewing, and Digger Bee rye pale ale by Mountains Walking.
Boise Brewing’s foray into New England IPAs with Better Hazy than Never puts a fresh stamp on the niche hazy IPA sub-style. Fruity, peach and tropical aromas leap from the beer’s light copper-ruby body. From the first sip to second, the flavor profile matures, expressing ever-broadening malt and experimental tropical hop experiences, inter-playing in a fresh dance with each draw. As the head lingers thickly at the glass’ bottom, a dry malt finish with a kiss of mango beckons for a refill, like the temptation to take one more cast into the Millionaire’s Pool at Harriman State Park, where a native Cutthroat surely is hunting emerging caddisfly.
Another Idaho craft beer cleaning manifesting the spirit of Island Park is Payette Brewing’s Czech style pilsner Floating on Aire. True to style, the beer pours straw-yellow in hue with bright white lace, releasing a mild piney hop nose. Shifting lightly off style, the grain experience cascades in multiple dimensions, tumbling between sweet, lightly toasted barley and hints of green grass, grounded by low-ester yeast notes. Closing your eyes and exhaling after the final sip, one is left with the sensation of standing on a field of gently-swaying barley, beneath a temperate morning sun, beckoned by the light chatter of trout water riffles just over the knoll.
Recognizing the region’s proximity to Montana as well, Digger Bee rye pale ale by Bozeman’s Mountains Walking Brewery evokes the feel of late summer days, pouring yellow with brassy highlights and expressing a clean toasted grain nose with nuanced nutty rye aromas. Overall rye spiciness is subdued, rounded with traces of citrus and wildflower honey, against biscuit flavors, and finishing dryly in a mosaic of lingering notes calling for one more sip to tease out.
As a traveler to Island Park is rewarded with inspiring sights beyond one’s home, the encounter of that place and any new land is fullest by taking in local fruits, as well as the sights of the place. So, remember on your travels this summer to breathe not only the air of sacred heights and fields, but also that above locally treasured comestibles, craft beer included. The right beer at the right time, and the stars align.
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